So, I have all the bits to repair this
um arcade game thing. Uh you can watch
the previous video somewhere up here.
So, the first thing I’ve got is a
replacement for this voltage regulator
which has died. So, unfortunately,
I could only get 100 pieces of these.
So, I’ve got quite a few spares now. So,
we’ll use that to replace the voltage
regulator. I have a trusted uh battery
charger. So, one of these classic
boards. Now, I think we can probably fit
that nicely maybe here. So, that might
fit nicely there. And then these LEDs
are kind of in the same place as the
existing LEDs. And then we’ll just run
some wires around.
I’ve got a couple of um shock key
diodes. So, at the moment, there’s
there’s absolutely no charging control
circuitry on this board at all. What
I’ll do is I’ll have one diode from the
5V line from the USB going into the
switch and another diode. I think we’ll
remove this um this jumper resistor
here. Replace that with a diode that
comes from the positive end of the
battery. But the uh the first thing I
want to try is can I resurrect this
battery. So at the moment it’s
completely flat. It’s reading 0 volts.
So I’m going to try and um hook it up to
the voltage charger. See if we can bring
it back to life. So, let’s um solder
some wires onto this. And then what I
think I’ll do is I’ll try and use this
board. So, I’ll just solder the wire
straight to here. It’s got a nice
connector for the battery. And we’ll see
if we can bring this back to life. So,
let’s get a bit of solder
and solder up these battery terminals.
So, we just tin these pads here. They’re
B+ and the B minus. So, this is B minus.
So, we’ll just connect that there. And
then do the same for B+. B minus and B+
hooked up. And then we’ll just attach
them to these points here on the PCB. So
this should be the plus side of the
battery.
Just put a bit of leaded solder on
there. And this is the minus side of the
battery. Put some leaded solder on there
as well. Tin these um two wires. Okay,
that’s nicely tinned. So, we want
minus going to here and then plus going
to here. Oops. Making a bit of a dog’s
dinner of that. Let’s get a better
angle. Okay, that will do. So, what we
should be able to do is this will just
slot back into the case, which I have
here. So, we’ll just slide this back on
and get it organized. Very rattly. There
we go. So, that’s back in the case. And
then the battery should go here.
And now I should be able to just plug
this charger into USBC and we should see
if it actually charges. Or maybe it’s
just going to go bang. Let’s uh let’s
find out. See if this battery comes back
to life or not. So our battery voltage
rapidly increasing. Let me let me show
you that. So voltage on our battery is
going up nicely. You can’t see that.
That’s way way too much reflection. I
think that’s better. There we go.
Battery voltage going up. So, I think
we’ll leave this charging for for a
while and see if the battery comes back
to life nicely.
So, this is looking nice. We’re now
getting um half an amp going into the
battery charger. So, the battery is
charging up nice and quickly. Let’s just
have a look at the battery voltage. So,
bring in the multimeter and we can see.
Let’s just probe here and here. So,
that’s looking very nice. We’re um yeah,
41
volts. So, it’s charging up nicely now.
Um, this this light will soon turn um I
think it turns green or maybe it’s blue.
I can’t remember, but it will soon
change and the battery will be fully
charged. So, I think our battery is back
into life.
Okay, so we’re looking good. We’re
getting a blue light. Interesting that
it’s going blue red. I’ve not seen that
before on these charging boards, but
blue is good. So, let’s take the battery
out.
and measure the actual voltage we’ve
got. And hopefully we should have um
around 4.2 volts, 4 volts. It’s not too
bad. What I’ll do is I will um keep an
eye on this. So, I’ll leave it seem to
be going down. Um hopefully it isn’t
going to go down forever, but I’ll leave
this for an hour or so and see what
voltage we’ve got.
Since we’re about to look at a whole
bunch of PCBs, let’s do a shout out to
PCB weight, who do all the PCBs for this
channel. Check out our link in the
description. They’re really great. So,
the next stage of our fixing, we need to
remove this regulator. So, I’ve decided
to use my mini hot plate for this. So,
we’ll hopefully get this heated up. We
should be able to do a very quick swap
with the old one for the new one. So,
let’s get a bit of light on this and
we’ll slowly warm this up. Now,
hopefully we won’t melt any plastic
doing this. There is a switch here which
I’m slightly concerned about, but I’ll
try and avoid getting that too much on
the heat. So, let’s just position this a
bit better. All right. So, hopefully the
solder will melt soon. We can lift this
off and swap it for the new one.
Oops. Slight accident there. Let’s just
slide this capacitor back into the right
place. There we go. Not the uh not my
finest work, but uh I think that will
probably be okay. And I’ve just realized
my microscope was not recording again,
which is a bit annoying. But anyway,
I’ll just do a bit of touchup on these
solder joints.
Okay, so that should be good. Let’s just
touch up this a bit.
Do a bit more solder on that joint
there. That’s better. Well, not a great
job, but it’s now nicely connected. So,
while I’m here and I’ve got the
soldering iron switched on, why don’t we
wire up the 5 volts to the input? So,
we’re going to come in and go from there
from there to well, we can go to there.
Actually, that’s the same 5V connection.
Yeah, I think that will do. So, let’s go
in and do that. So, we’ll hold this in
position. Cross step down with the
tweezers. Come in here with the
soldering iron.
It’s one end connected.
And then we’ll just connect this end to
this pad here.
There we go. That should work perfectly.
So that will connect the USB 5 volts. So
USB coming in here, 5 volts comes along
this trace, comes here, go through this
diode, across to here, goes back up
here, through this test point into the
switch, and then when you turn the
switch on, that will connect the 5 volts
into the input of this voltage
regulator. So let’s quickly check that,
see if it actually works. So
very noisy having this speaker floating
around. I wonder if I should actually
remove it for now. Let’s take the
speaker off for now because it is
getting a bit annoying. There we go. No
more rattling. Should have done that at
the start of the video. Right, let’s get
a cable,
plug this in, and then we’ll see if we
get 3.3 volts on the output of our
voltage regulator.
Let’s move that out the way. Let’s find
a quick cable. Okay, let’s plug this in
and then we’ll turn on that switch. So
we get a a blue light here which
indicates 5 volts coming in. This test
point here should be 5 volts
and ground. Yep. So let’s bring this in
so you can see it as well. So we got 5
volts there.
And hopefully go to this pin here. Then
we got 3.3 volts. Obviously I’ve got my
pin things the wrong way around. We
should have 3.3 volts coming in. That’s
perfect. Let’s bring the screen in
quickly. Just unplug that. Turn that
off. Let’s plug the screen in and double
check that we are actually getting this
thing turning on. One of the big moments
of this video. Does it actually turn on?
Got to wait for it to boot. There we go.
That works. Okay. So, the screen works.
So, that’s our 5 volts coming in. Okay.
Without any problem. Let’s unplug this
before I destroy anything.
Put that somewhere safe. So, so that’s
good. So, that’s 3 volts coming in
there. Now, the next thing we need to do
is find a home for this board. So, I’ve
already put some capton tape and some
double-sided sticky tape on it. So,
we’ll put this board somewhere like um
maybe here.
Try and slot that in nicely.
And we need to connect the ground. So
you can see we got ground here needs to
connect to this point here. Positive
here needs to connect probably to this
test point. Battery plus will go to
here. Battery minus will go to one of
these pins here. We need to cut this
track uh somewhere. And then the battery
minus will go to ground somewhere as
well. So, I’m sure we can find another
ground test point. There’s one there.
So, so that we’ll do that next. Um, so
far looking promising in our repair
mission.
[Music]
Oh, the screen’s gone black, the buttons
don’t blink, the joystick’s wobbly, it’s
on the brink, the game’s gone mad, it’s
lost its cheer. But I got my solder and
I got no fear. Fix it up. Fix it up,
matey.
Sparks are flying. Don’t be lazy.
Patch the board and wire it crazy.
Fix it up. Fix it up, matey.
The circuit’s fried, the beeps are mute.
The speakers cuff like an old sea flute.
I’ll grab my tools and my roll of tape.
No silly game can make escape.

I’ll twist and turn. I’ll make it new.
A sailor’s work but for the crew.
Fix it up. Fix it up. 80
sparks are flying. Don’t be lazy.
Patch the board and wire it crazy.
Fix it up. Fix it up, matey.
A drop of solder, a twist of wire. I’ll
mend this ship before it’s dires glow
like a lantern’s light. This arcade
sailing through the night.
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
Oh yeah.
Fix it up. Fix it up. Matey,
sparks are flying. Don’t be lazy.
Patch the board and wire it crazy.
Fix it up. Fix it up. Matey.
Fix it up. Fix it up. Matey.
Sparks are flying. Don’t be lazy.
Patch the board and wire it crazy.
Fix it up. Fix it up. Matey.
[Music]
So, this is looking quite promising.
We’re on battery power. We have a sound
coming out and the screen’s working. I
think my repair actually looks not too
bad. Um, so that’s pretty good. Oh, just
powered off. Well, it’s come it’s become
disconnected from the battery, so that’s
fine. Not something to worry about. So,
uh, let’s get this all reassembled and,
um, see if it still works once it’s
completely assembled.
[Music]
[Applause]
Heat.
[Applause]
Heat.